Cross Canada 2024 Part 5: Canada Day on the Canadian

Cross Canada 2024 Part 5: Canada Day on the Canadian

The Canadian, left, with the distinctive (if fading) Canada wordmarks. It's Canada Day, eh?

As I write this, we’ve just hit the one-year mark since my brother and I started out on this cross-Canada adventure. I hadn’t expected that it would take this long to finish writing up the full trip report, but it now feels kind of appropriate as a way to mark the anniversary. So as we mark Canada Day 2025, let’s circle back to July 1 of 2024, as we returned to the Canadian in Vancouver to make our trip back east.

After a few days in Vancouver and our little side-trips to Seattle and Victoria, we returned to Vancouver’s Pacific Central station to board our eastbound train. When we booked this, planning the trip around Canada Day was advantageous for having additional time off already worked in. The fact that our eastbound departure would be on exactly July 1 was a happy coincidence, and felt like a very appropriate time to board this nationally-named train. We were curious to see if there would be any acknowledgement of this on board, and we would not be disappointed.

Day 1

Pacific Central station - with the distinctive architecture and enormous rooftop lettering, this is easily one of the most impressive looking stations on the VIA network.

We arrived at Pacific Central shortly after 2pm. The train was scheduled for departure at 3pm, and there was already a good crowd in the station as we arrived. Sleeper check in started not long after this. Due to being slightly further forward in the train this time, we were assigned to diner “A”, and made our reservations for the first day’s dinner. We again selected the early option.

Pacific Central waiting room. The ticket office is at the far end, and the sleeper lounge is through the glass doors to the right. We never actually went in, so no photos to share. 

Our train configuration. VIA has signboards like this at Vancouver, Jasper, and Winnipeg. The car types on this particular one all appear to be correct! Despite the "platform 4" and "platform 5" indications, the train was not actually split up. 

Closer look at the VIA ticket counters and baggage area. This was a busy travel day at the end of the long weekend, as evidenced by the Amtrak bus departures for the day having sold out! That art deco Pacific Central Station sign over by the baggage area is a really nice touch.

There is a small lounge in the station, but we decided to instead just spend our time in the main station area, where we remained until boarding started around 2:30pm. I had initially wondered if the train might be split into two sections on the platform, but discovered that it was already fully assembled as we headed out. Economy passengers were being sent down the platform on the left side of the train (4), while sleeper passengers were sent down the right (5) (*EDIT: That was my assumption at the time, but it's been pointed out that platform 4 is actually on the other side of the track to the left, and the arrangement on the board likely indicates the process for when the train is split up in two sections ahead of departure. From what I observed, it appeared to have been fully assembled when we arrived, so unless economy boarded very early and they did a re-assembly move that I didn't notice, they likely just sent everybody out down platform 5).  There was plenty of stored equipment on the adjacent tracks, including one of the currently unused Panorama cars, and one of the Cascades Talgo sets was over in the secured Amtrak area, waiting for its afternoon departure south to Seattle.  

Our train on the left, with stored equipment visible on either side. The simple platform canopies here are quire nice, though they only shelter a short section of the platform. 

Panorama! These cars used to be used on the Canadian between Edmonton and Vancouver, and on the Skeena (Jasper-Prince Rupert). They have been out of service since Covid. This single car - 1721 - was tuned up and brought back to Vancouver, but so far has only been used on a single charter run. 

The Panorama's large wraparound windows provide an excellent view through mountain scenery, or any scenery really. They lack the forward view of the dome, but would be a welcome addition. I also think they could be well used on the Ocean, given that it's stuck operating as a bidirectional train these days. 

Talgo! One of the two remaining Talgo sets for the Cascades rests in its secured area, waiting on the evening departure south. The equipment is cool, but man are those cab cars ever ugly. 

I noted the following VIA equipment stored around Vancouver (which would include out of service equipment, spares for the Canadian and Jasper-Prince Rupert trains, as well as equipment being worked on): Annapolis (diner), Evangeline Park, Tremblant Park, Yoho Park, 8132 (coach), 8117 (coach), 1721 (Panorama), Craig Manor, Sherwood Manor (which had been on our #1), and Blair Manor. When we were making our trip on the Cascades I had also spotted 8604, Imperial, Chateau Dollard, and Cornwall Manor, all of which would be added to our train #2.

Our train for the return looked pretty much identical to our westbound trip, though this time we had the more typical two locomotives (rather than three), a deadhead sleeper up front, and of course different specific cars in the consist. Interestingly enough, the deadhead sleeper - Cornwall Manor – had actually been a part of our westbound train. It had evidently been set out in Vancouver, and was now heading back to Toronto (or perhaps on to Montreal) for work.

VIA #2 – July 1, 2024 – Vancouver to Toronto

6441 F40 Locomotive
6420 F40 Locomotive (“love the way” wrap)
Cornwall Manor (Deadhead)
8604 Baggage
8102 Economy (Refurbished, Teal/yellow scheme)
8125 Economy (Refurbished, blue stripe scheme)
8503 Skyline (Economy) (old blue/green interior)
Rogers Manor (09)
Thompson Manor (10)
Brant Manor (11)
8517 Skyline A (brown/yellow interior – lots of wear and tear on seats)
Imperial Dining Car A (refurbished)
Amherst Manor (12)
Wolfe Manor (13) *Upper/Lower Section 3
Hearne Manor (Crew Car)
Drummond Manor (14)
Dunsmuir Manor (15)
Grant Manor (16)
8507 Skyline B (brown/yellow interior)
Emerald Dining Car B (refurbished)
Chateau Dollard – Prestige (30)
Chateau Varennes – Prestige (31)
Prince Albert Park – Prestige (39)

*Line numbers in brackets

Passengers in cars 09, 10, 11, 12, 13 assigned to Diner A. Passengers in cars 14, 15, 16, 30, 31, 39 assigned to Diner B.

 

We made our way down the platform to board our sleeper, which this time would be Wolfe Manor at line number 13. As we were just ahead of the crew sleeper, we would be assigned to diner A. As I mentioned in earlier posts, each dining car is paired with a Skyline, and while sleeper passengers are not formally assigned or restricted to a specific Skyline car, passengers seem to tend to stick to the one nearest them. We had really enjoyed being in Skyline B for the trip west, so we initially thought that we might wander back that way this time around; but once we got settled in, we discovered that we really liked the atmosphere and community that developed around Skyline A, so we would stick there for pretty much the whole trip.

The Park car would be off-limits to all but Prestige for the full first day leaving Vancouver, and back to access in the evenings afterwards. We would go back there later in the trip, but as with the trip west, we generally preferred our Skyline.

Our accommodations for the return would be basically identical to our trip west. We again had an upper/lower berth section, though this time we were in section 3, which is slightly more private because there’s a wall directly across the aisle. That space originally housed a fourth section, but was removed to add the shower when VIA overhauled these cars.

Our attendant for the Vancouver-Winnipeg section was Carissa, who is one of the Vancouver-based crew, meaning she would work out to Winnipeg, and then work home on the next #1. Some other crew on the train were Winnipeg based, making their return to their home terminal on this leg. Carissa was absolutely top notch, and easily the stand out of the four sleeper attendants we had over the course of our travels.

The first leg of this trip would actually have the best overall crew that we would have at any point through our round trip. In addition to our excellent sleeper attendant, the dining car crew were extremely outgoing, friendly and fun, while also being very professional. Our Skyline attendant, Jeanette, would also be an absolute joy.

Speaking of the Skyline, shortly after we got settled in our sleeper we made our way to Skyline A for departure. Right away, we noticed the car was fully decorated for Canada Day, with flags in the lounge and dome, and extra decorations celebrating the occasion. Settling into the dome, we were soon introduced to Jeanette, our Winnipeg-based Skyline attendant for the first leg of this trip. The service model for VIA’s Skyline attendants is interesting, because there are clearly some standard elements, but there’s ultimately a fair bit of freedom for the individual employee to design certain elements and decide how they want to run the show. As a result, while we found that everyone we encountered did a good job, some really stood out. 

To give a specific example, every Skyline attendant we had did some sort of beer and wine tastings, but the nature of these varied. One version, which we saw on our trip west, involved basically passing around samples, and giving a spiel to the tune of “This beer here is from…[looks at can]…Winnipeg! It’s a dark beer, that…[reads tasting notes and description off the side of the can]…enjoy!” The version we got from Jeanette (and some others, to a slightly lesser extent) involved a more involved description of brewing/fermenting techniques, colours, scents and flavours to note, some history of the styles and breweries (or wineries), and more back and forth with passengers to talk about what we were all experiencing. Both of these tasting styles still technically cover the requirement, but one is far more engaging and memorable than the other.

Jeanette really stood out among all of the crew members we encountered. She is clearly someone who loves the job, and her passion comes through in the talks she gives, the activities she runs, and the general fun, welcoming and entertaining atmosphere maintained throughout the trip. The extra décor for Canada Day was just one example of her going the extra mile to add to the experience, as were her excellent illustrations on the whiteboards in the car. Bonus points – the Skyline dome lights were already turned off when we boarded, and stayed that way all trip.

Another Skyline display, this time featuring items from the Silver and Blue era on VIA, through the 1990s into early 2000s. 

Canada Day decor in the Skyline, looking ahead from the cafe.

A closer look at the Skyline info board, with events and Jeanette's fun illustration.

Pulling away from Pacific Central, with a view of VIA's Vancouver Maintenance Centre. This facility does a lot of maintenance for the Canadian and Skeena, including locomotive work and some passenger car work. They also do contract work for West Coast Express, the Vancouver commuter rail operation.

View heading out, with Canada flag in the forward dome window.

Settled in the dome and with sparkling wine and hors d’oeuvres in hand, the train got underway right on time at 3pm. And then…we stopped, just beyond the station tracks. We would have about 30 minutes of stopped time with a few short movements before finally getting away from town, making our way through the congested areas on our way out of Vancouver proper.

Moving! Maybe? Lots of stop and start on our way out.

Looking back as we're crossing the Fraser River. Much like on our Cascades trip - but this time we'd make a left on the other side.

Fraser River crossing, looking over at the SkyBridge that carries SkyTrains across the river. 

The ageing Pattullo Bridge can be seen on the left, and work on the replacement is visible to the right. 

Passing the CN Thornton yard in Surrey, with some BNSF power visible in the mix. 

Dipping under the Port Mann bridge, which carries the Trans-Canada across the Fraser from Surrey towards Burnaby.

We weren’t that far out of town when the early dinner call came for 5pm. Shortly after taking our seats in the diner, we spotted a meet with a westbound Rocky Mountaineer, shortly before Mission. Our first meal back on board did not disappoint, though one odd little thing we noticed in this direction was that all the menu inserts appeared to be printed from poorly made photocopies, which made the menus sometimes difficult to read and felt somewhat unpolished. Yet the quality of both the food and service continued to be stellar, as were the views accompanying the meal on this sunny July 1.

First menu of the trip. On the return, we'd notice some repeat menu items; but the ones we had again all had their own distinct flare from the new chefs on this trip, and some slightly different local ingredients.

Rocky Mountaineer zipping past, with dining car patrons reflected in the glass. We're definitely on the better train, despite what those American tourists had to say on the previous trip!

Appetizer salad.

Multigrain dinner roll, with garlic butter on the outside. Another slight change-up in the bread offerings!

Cajun salmon. I had the same dish on the way out on day 4, but if you go back and look you'll note the differences in presentation and vegetable sides. The salmon itself was also different - a different cut, but I believe it was also Atlantic salmon the previous time and some pacific variety this time.

Dinner views, crossing the Fraser again at Mission.

First dessert - a rather nice cheesecake. 

After supper we spent hours in the Skyline dome, enjoying the stunning evening views as we made our way up the Fraser canyon. This time we were on the opposite side through the directional running zones, and we also got to see a lot of the territory that we missed overnight in the opposite direction. It was fully dark by right around the point it got fully dark the opposite way, so we rather effectively managed to see the entirety of the canyons between the two directions. Once again, this is some of the most breathtaking scenery on the route. 

Fraser River, with more mountains emerging and a breathtaking sky.

Farmland in the Fraser valley. Incredibly lush scenery along this stretch.

More mountain peaks.

Getting away from civilization and into the woods, as we move further up the valley.

Raging waters - much more dangerous looking than the calm blue further down!

Fraser canyon, with the evening sun making the clouds look pretty amazing.

Fraser canyon, with the CN line visible on the other side of the canyon. Though we were asleep by this part of the westbound trip, we were previously running on the opposite side due to the directional running agreement.

This part of the canyon is pretty stunning too, and another excellent evening for light.

Hell's Gate - a dramatic and very dangerous narrowing of the river. 

Enjoying views from the dome. 

Evening dome views. Such a peaceful place to be.

More evidence of past forest fires, trees standing blackened and needleless.

Lots of light still in the sky, but the sun is now below the mountains, and we start to move into shadows in the valley.

One difficult sight in this direction was passing the town of Lytton, which had been completely destroyed by fires in 2021. It is still a somewhat surreal scene, with the roads still outlining blocks where no buildings stand, and the whole area eerily dark in the twilight. Some new construction around the edges of town was visible, though, so perhaps there is still hope for some return.

As the night wore on, we again enjoyed sitting in the darkened dome, mesmerized by the lights of the train illuminating the canyon walls ahead as we snaked along through the darkness. By around 11:30pm we finally decided to call it a night, and retired to our berths (now neatly made up for the night), looking forward to a good night’s sleep before our arrival in Jasper the next morning.

Low light, as we start to move into areas we had seen in comparably low light on the westbound trip.

A final view for the night. Once again this is really hard to capture in a photo, but absolutely mesmerizing when you're sitting there watching, as the train snakes its way around, headlights illuminating the canyon walls and lineside signals reflecting off the stainless steel...

Ready for bed! My lower berth has been all made up and looks as welcoming as ever.

Day 2

 

Day 2, mountain morning views.

The next morning we awoke to somewhat cloudy skies and found out we were running about an hour behind schedule. Arrival in Jasper was estimated for close to noon. We also had our first time change of the trip, jumping an hour ahead at 9:30am. Day 2 would feature a light continental breakfast in the diner and offerings in the Skyline, then brunch in a first-come-first-served setup from 9:30 to 2pm due to the Jasper stop. We made due with some initial provisions from the Skyline first thing, and planned to head to the diner for brunch after leaving Jasper.

Activities for day 2

Arriving in Jasper, with both east and westbound freights waiting.

We made up some time through the morning, and would ultimately arrive in Jasper at 11:22am, only 22 minutes behind schedule. Our stop here would be about an hour, and we were advised that re-boarding would take place at 12:15pm, with a goal to leave on time at 12:30pm.

First good look at the headend of our train, as we rest at Jasper.

One of our coaches. Despite being identical internally, six of these refurbished HEP1 coaches got this teal/yellow scheme, initially planned to help them align with equipment in the Quebec City-Windsor Corridor. Despite this, they have been used across the system. A shame on the Canadian, as it breaks up the continuity of the silver and blue. For coach passengers on board, they'd never know the difference between this and the blue-striped refurbished coach next to it.

An eastbound freight passes our train - it will stop for a crew change, and then make its way through the queue of freights.

Downtown Jasper.

Elk mural, by the artist SATR. Apparently done as part of the UpLift! mural festival in May 2024.

Back to our train, this seemed a good time to grab a photo of our home for these 5 days - Wolfe Manor.

It was nice to have another brief chance to get out and wander around Jasper. More businesses were open at this time of day, so we stepped into a few places to have a look around. After our short visit we re-boarded right at 12:15 and got ourselves ready for brunch, which we’d head to around 12:30 as the train got back on its way.

We expected to pass quite a bit of the Jasper Park scenery while we were eating, but we encountered a huge amount of train traffic on the way out and at Swan Landing. This meant that we spent a lot of our brunch sitting still and were able to get back to the dome for a lot of the nice park scenery, which even involved spotting a herd of elk and a group of mountain sheep – right about where Jeanette predicted we’d see them, shortly before the park entrance.

Brunch menu.

Omelette - I forgot to note what the special was this day, but there's a different omelette offering each time it appears on the menu.

Return of the familiar caramel carrot cake - something we encountered on the westbound trip, but also a staple of the Ocean's dessert menu for several years now. The ice cream was a second option, with the third option being..."both!" Entirely indulgent, probably unnecessary, but no regrets.

Jasper park scenery, with plenty of burned trees from a previous fire.

Passing a freight with empty well cars, through the park. Those are nice for not blocking the view!

Lakes in the park.

Continuing through Jasper.

Dome window framing. The clouds were around but not low enough to obscure the peaks.

The vibrant colours in some lakes like this is one of the really cool things you'll see up in the mountains, thanks to the sediments from glacial erosion.

Mountain sheep! You need to look close, because they are really well camouflaged.

Our train makes its way through the last part of the national park, as Jeanette narrates about the passing scenery. 

The sky brightened up through the afternoon as we made our way out into the more forested landscape beyond Jasper. As we got towards Hinton AB, we spotted remnants of a recent derailment – several hopper cars were still lying down the embankment next to the tracks. Presumably they’d be cleaned up at some point, but evidently weren’t a priority when re-opening the line.

Brighter skies, along the shores of Chip Lake.

View from one of the really impressive high bridges we crossed - the bridge entering Entwistle AB, crossing the Pembina River.

A bit further along, we spotted a long stretch of new double track going in before Edson, around roughly mile 150 or so. There was a long stretch under construction, and I’m sure this will be welcome with the volume of freight traffic through this area.

We would stop at Edson at 3:58pm and Evansburg at 5:09pm, running about half an hour late. Then before we knew it, we were back to supper again with our early dinner call at 5:30pm.

Dinner menu, day 2.

Another salad - this one had apples and candied pecans, and was really excellent.

Beef tenderloin. Fantastic.

Key lime pie - very tart, and quite enjoyable.

Approaching Edmonton, with lots of interesting power - that SD40-2W appears to have had a hood replacement at some point, as the cab and front part of the hood is in the CN North America scheme, while the rest of the hood is from an older striped unit.

This was another great meal with good company, though unfortunately we ended up stopped shortly before Edmonton and sitting still for nearly the entire time. We had arrived in the yard at Edmonton by around 6:15pm (just before our main courses arrived), and sat there until 7:25pm, waiting for traffic to clear. We made it in to the station at 7:53pm, just over an hour late, and after a nearly hour long servicing stop with a bit of time for a fresh air break, we were back on the move at 8:50pm, an hour behind schedule.

The last exciting event for this second day would come around 10pm, as we met our eastbound counterpart – VIA #1 – at double track just before Antler Lake. A joy to see that train pass us, again, and also remarkable to still have so much daylight by that time of night. The last photo I took for the day (below) was at 10:48pm, with the sunset still glowing in the west behind us.

Passing #1! 

Evening in the dome, with a green signal ahead glinting on the stainless roofline.

With less exciting after-dark scenery this night and the mountains long behind us, we would soon be off to bed, resting up as we charged on across the prairies.

I hope you've enjoyed following along on this Canada Day (and July 2!) adventure. In the next and final installment of this series, we’ll pick up in Saskatchewan and make our way back across the prairies, into the Ontario wilderness, and ultimately back to Toronto and home.

Mountain views have given way to our first prairie sunset, as we wrap up day 2. Yes, it was almost 11pm...